Mustang Restoration Cost Guide (1964½–1970)

Mustang Restoration Cost Guide (1964½–1970)

Full system-by-system cost breakdown plus Los Angeles pricing adjustments based on 2025 shop data.

Start My Intake

Total Cost Range

$48,000 - $300,000+

Data Updated

2025 data

Pricing reflects national benchmarks plus Los Angeles multipliers.

Driver Tier

$48,000–$80,000

Show Tier

$100,000–$150,000+

Concours / Restomod

$150,000–$300,000+

Guide Overview

Classic Mustang restoration costs for 1964½–1970 cars typically range from $48,000 to over $300,000 depending on rust levels, paint quality, mechanical condition, and the owner’s intent. These cars are now 55–60 years old and many have lived multiple lives—daily drivers, amateur restorations, drag cars, or long-term storage—so every layer of history compounds once a shop begins teardown.

Los Angeles labor adds another variable. Experienced Mustang specialists bill $145–$185 per hour, so even small repairs scale quickly. This guide is designed to give owners a realistic, transparent breakdown so they understand where money goes and how to prioritize systems before requesting shop estimates.

A full restoration costs $48,000 to $300,000+ because structure, rust, and goals vary wildly from car to car. The biggest driver is labor: surprises appear during disassembly, especially rust hiding in cowls, floor supports, torque boxes, and rockers. These hidden issues routinely add hundreds of hours of metalwork once the shell is opened, so consult the Mustang Rust Repair Cost Guide for deeper structural estimates.

Another major factor is paint preparation. Unlike modern cars with consistent panel fitment, vintage Mustangs require manual gapping, metal finishing, and repeated test fits. High-end paint jobs can exceed 1,500–2,000 labor hours, particularly on cars with prior accident damage or amateur repairs, which is why our Mustang Paint & Body Cost Guide breaks down gapping and blocking hours by finish level.

Owners should also be aware that parts quality ranges widely. Some reproduction components fit beautifully while others require hours of adjustment. Mechanical systems are generally predictable in cost, but body and structural work can swing dramatically based on what’s revealed during teardown.

Listen

Expert Talk: Mustang Restoration Costs Explained

Read the transcript

Clara (00:00): You know that feeling, that dream of finding a classic car—maybe a fastback tucked away in a barn—where a few weekends and some new parts will make it perfect again.

Lee (00:10): For so many people that dream car is the first-generation Ford Mustang; it’s the ultimate project because parts are everywhere, the history is incredible, and you feel connected as you bring a piece of the past back to life.

Clara (00:29): You feel like you’re rescuing it, and we love that story—but today we’re doing a deep dive into the financial reality check using data from specialist shops to uncover real cost drivers and hidden risks.

Lee (00:50): Let’s get the sticker shock out of the way: a professional restoration for a solid driver-quality car starts around $48,000, and that range is enormous.

Clara (01:04): That’s already a big number.

Lee (01:06): And it’s only the starting point—the budget can soar to $300,000+ for a top-tier concours build.

Clara (01:19): That’s basically a house in some markets; how does a Mustang restoration reach that number?

Lee (01:27): The core misunderstanding is thinking the chrome or engine parts drive the budget when the single biggest cost is professional labor—60% to 75% of the total is meticulous human time.

Clara (01:53): So let’s unpack this labor monster: if I’m shopping for a shop, what hourly rates am I facing?

Lee (01:59): Nationally, a solid restoration shop is roughly $125 per hour, but specialists building six-figure cars in markets like Los Angeles jump to $145–$160, and elite concours teams pull $160–$185+ per hour.

Clara (02:27): When you’re paying that much per hour, the sheer number of hours has to be terrifying.

Lee (02:32): It is—it’s an exponential relationship where higher quality multiplies the hours.

Lee (02:42): A driver-quality build is roughly 800–1,200 total hours, true show quality jumps to 2,500–3,500 hours, and concours perfection hits 4,000–5,000+ hours because you’re disassembling every nut and bolt.

Clara (03:08): I had no idea the gap was measured in thousands of hours; what single decision pushes you from driver to show car?

Lee (03:20): Committing to the frame-off equivalent teardown—the Mustang is a unibody, so to get a flawless finish you have to remove glass, interior, and every mechanical component, and that’s the financial point of no return.

Clara (03:33): Avoiding that step is the key to saving money.

Lee (03:37): Exactly; the moment you commit to the full teardown you add 2,000+ hours for disassembly, cleaning, and final adjustments, so it’s the biggest financial decision in the project.

Clara (03:51): If labor is the monster, let’s talk about the ambushes that make those hours skyrocket—rust has to be first on the list.

Lee (03:59): Absolutely; rust is the largest financial risk because you can’t see everything when the car is assembled, and serious structural rust can push the metalwork budget into six figures.

Clara (04:14): What’s a realistic range if you find rust?

Lee (04:19): Moderate rust in floor pans or small patches might run $7,000–$15,000 and 40–150 hours, while serious structural repairs jump to $25,000–$40,000+ and 200+ hours, doubling the entire estimate overnight.

Clara (04:46): Where should owners look first for these hidden problems?

Lee (04:51): Cowl panels are notorious water traps that rust from the inside out, and torque boxes tie the front rails to the floor so fixing them means cutting layers of metal and doing precise structural welding—a $600 floor pan can cost thousands in labor.

Clara (05:30): Let’s move from structure to the skin—body and paint feels like another place where labor explodes.

Lee (05:39): It’s the aesthetic labor sink: a basic respray is $5,000–$8,000, show-quality paint is $15,000–$35,000, and concours work often exceeds $100,000 because you dedicate 1,500–2,000 hours to metal alignment and blocking.

Clara (06:36): Now let’s shift to mechanicals—engines and drivetrains seem like strategic choices.

Lee (06:43): You have two paths: rebuild the original or buy a modern crate engine.

Clara (06:52): Rebuilding feels like the purest route and maybe cheaper.

Lee (06:56): It’s deceptive—rebuild kits are only $500–$800 in parts, but success depends on expensive machine-shop labor that adds $800+ just for a short block, and you’re tied to their schedule.

Clara (07:16): What about the crate engine alternative?

Lee (07:19): Crate engines flip the equation; a new 302 V8 crate is $4,000–$6,000+, but labor is almost zero because you avoid assembly, machining, and debugging risk.

Clara (07:28): And the rest of the drivetrain, like transmissions?

Lee (07:42): Rebuilding a stock C4 or C6 is $1,500–$2,500, but many owners modernize with a Tremec five-speed—those kits are $2,000–$3,000 plus installation yet improve drivability.

Clara (08:00): Modernizing steering and brakes must be a common move too.

Lee (08:06): Absolutely—front disc swaps run $700–$1,000, rack-and-pinion conversions exceed $2,000, and the broader restomod strategy uses higher parts costs to avoid unpredictable legacy labor.

Clara (08:42): You’re mitigating labor risk with technology.

Lee (08:50): Exactly; you’re buying your way out of unpredictable hours.

Clara (08:56): We’ve hit the big-ticket items, but restorers always warn the little things and scope creep kill budgets—what tops that list?

Lee (09:04): Electrical work is number one: a $300 harness still needs 75–120 hours to install, and integrating modern systems or chasing a bad ground becomes a money pit.

Clara (09:23): What about the interior?

Lee (09:28): A full interior kit costs $2,000–$3,000 in parts, but professional labor pushes a complete interior to $5,000–$7,000 once you factor in upholstery, headliners, and trim fitment.

Clara (09:46): Putting it all back together after paint must be nerve-racking.

Lee (09:52): Final assembly for a frame-off car takes 100–300 hours just to reinstall glass, chrome, and perfect the panel gaps, and reproduction panels rarely fit perfectly so you spend hundreds of additional hours tweaking.

Clara (10:16): And the tiny stuff—the bolts and clips?

Lee (10:19): That’s the hardware tax: thousands of unique fasteners and rechromed bits that quietly exceed $5,000 on a high-quality build and rarely make the initial budget.

Clara (10:34): Given all this, what are the top three things listeners can do to protect themselves?

Lee (10:44): Number one, start with the cleanest chassis you can find and pay more upfront; number two, mandate media blasting before purchase so rust shows itself; number three, be honest about why you’re building the car and stay in the driver-tier if the budget is constrained to avoid the teardown.

Clara (11:24): This deep dive makes it clear that timeline is a proxy for cost—six to twelve months for a driver versus three to five years for a concours car—so restorations need to be planned with labor modeling, not a parts catalog.

Lee (11:44): It’s a profound commitment, but the emotional payoff is massive because the process, the late nights, and the greasy hands teach you and earn your seat in the finished car.

Clara (12:09): You end up knowing the car better than the engineers, fixing half a century of problems.

Lee (12:14): That transformation matters most—you become part of the car’s story, build confidence, gain expertise, and restore a piece of yourself in the process.

Clara (12:28): And that’s something you just can’t put a price on.

Classic Mustang restoration costs for 1964½–1970 cars typically range from $48,000 to over $300,000 depending on rust levels, paint quality, mechanical condition, and the owner’s intent. These cars are now 55–60 years old and many have lived multiple lives—daily drivers, amateur restorations, drag cars, or long-term storage—so every layer of history compounds once a shop begins teardown.

Los Angeles labor adds another variable. Experienced Mustang specialists bill $145–$185 per hour, so even small repairs scale quickly. This guide is designed to give owners a realistic, transparent breakdown so they understand where money goes and how to prioritize systems before requesting shop estimates.

A full restoration costs $48,000 to $300,000+ because structure, rust, and goals vary wildly from car to car. The biggest driver is labor: surprises appear during disassembly, especially rust hiding in cowls, floor supports, torque boxes, and rockers. These hidden issues routinely add hundreds of hours of metalwork once the shell is opened, so consult the Mustang Rust Repair Cost Guide for deeper structural estimates.

Another major factor is paint preparation. Unlike modern cars with consistent panel fitment, vintage Mustangs require manual gapping, metal finishing, and repeated test fits. High-end paint jobs can exceed 1,500–2,000 labor hours, particularly on cars with prior accident damage or amateur repairs, which is why our Mustang Paint & Body Cost Guide breaks down gapping and blocking hours by finish level.

Owners should also be aware that parts quality ranges widely. Some reproduction components fit beautifully while others require hours of adjustment. Mechanical systems are generally predictable in cost, but body and structural work can swing dramatically based on what’s revealed during teardown.

Driver / Frame-On

$48,000–$80,000

800–1,200 hrs

Reliable cruiser with mechanical refresh and cosmetic tidy-up.

Show / Frame-Off

$100,000–$150,000+

~2,500 hrs

Full teardown, panel alignment, and layered paint correction.

Concours / Restomod

$150,000–$300,000+

4,000–5,000 hrs

Highest fidelity fit/finish or modern performance upgrades.

  • These restoration tiers reflect common owner goals and shop workflows. Some owners want a reliable weekend cruiser while others want a show-ready example with factory-correct finishes. Restomod builds fall into their own category, emphasizing performance upgrades such as modern suspension, brakes, fuel injection, or crate engines.
  • Driver-level builds keep the car mechanically sound and cosmetically presentable without going deep into body disassembly. Show cars require nearly every panel to be stripped, aligned, and refinished. Concours builds chase originality using date-coded components and factory-correct details, while restomods prioritize modern drivability and custom aesthetics.
  • Understanding your intent early helps avoid budget surprises and sets expectations with any restoration shop.

Rust Repair & Metalwork

60–800+
Low
$2,500
Mid
$15,000
High
$35,000–$55,000+

Body & Paint

250–2,000
Low
$6,000
Mid
$38,000
High
$80,000–$120,000+

Engine (289/302/351W)

60–110
Low
$4,500
Mid
$7,000
High
$12,000–$18,000+

Transmission & Differential

45–75
Low
$1,800
Mid
$3,500
High
$7,500–$9,500

Suspension / Steering / Brakes

60–100
Low
$2,500
Mid
$6,000
High
$18,000–$25,000

Electrical System

75–120
Low
$1,500
Mid
$4,000
High
$7,500–$10,000

Interior & Trim

40–80
Low
$3,500
Mid
$6,500
High
$12,000–$15,000+

Final Assembly Labor

140–400
Low
$20,000
Mid
$40,000
High
$60,000–$80,000

Each Mustang system carries its own set of challenges based on age, prior repairs, and parts availability. Mechanical systems—engines, transmissions, brakes, and suspension—tend to have predictable ranges because parts are widely available and installation processes are standardized, so you can dig into the Mustang Engine Rebuild Cost Guide and Mustang Transmission Swap Cost Guide for subsystem quotes.

Bodywork, rust repair, and paint are the true variables. Shops cannot accurately estimate these costs until the car is media blasted or disassembled. Even clean-looking Mustangs often hide rust under seam sealer or within the cowl vent system. Electrical systems can also require significant time, as brittle insulation, splices, and amateur wiring jobs need to be corrected for safety.

Use this table as a realistic overview before deeper inspection begins so you can prioritize the most at-risk systems.

Paint & Bodywork

Paint is the single most expensive part of most 1964½–1970 Mustang restorations. Achieving straight panels and consistent gaps takes extensive metalwork and repeated test fits, especially on cars with replacement panels. High-end paint materials have climbed in price, so the “paint job” most owners envision is actually hundreds of hours of prep before color is ever applied.

Rust Repair

Early Mustangs rust from the inside out, particularly in the cowl, torque boxes, floor pans, lower quarters, and rocker panels. These areas cannot be fully assessed until blasting or physical inspection. Structural repairs require bracing the unibody to maintain alignment, so metalwork quickly becomes slow, labor-intensive, and expensive.

Final Assembly

Final assembly includes trim, weatherstripping, wiring, glass, interior, and mechanical components. On vintage cars, nothing simply bolts on. Reproduction parts often need adjustment, and alignment issues must be corrected for doors, windows, and hoods. High-detail builds can spend 100+ hours fitting chrome and stainless trim alone.

LA Labor Rates

Labor is the largest line item in any restoration budget. Los Angeles shops specializing in classic Mustangs often have decades of experience and multi-year waitlists, which drives rates higher than national averages. High labor costs amplify every task—rust repair, paint, wiring, and final assembly—so local pricing adjustments are essential.

Unibody Structure

Early Mustangs use a unibody structure, so any floor, rail, or torque-box rust affects the entire chassis. Shops must brace the shell before cutting out structural sections to keep the body square, extending repair timelines and increasing labor hours.

Reproduction Panel Fitment

Even high-quality reproduction panels rarely fit perfectly out of the box. Shops modify, align, and sometimes reshape panels to achieve factory gaps. Because paint quality depends on these alignments, panel fitment adds hundreds of dry-fit hours to most builds.

LA Paint Backlogs

High-end paint and body shops in Southern California often book 1–3 years in advance thanks to demand from vintage car owners and collectors. Cars may sit in storage while waiting for a booth slot, adding both cost and timeline complexity.

Hidden Rust

The cowl vent assembly traps moisture, leading to internal rust that is only visible once the car is cut open. Rail and inner rocker corrosion can also spread quietly over decades. These hidden issues are common in 1964½–1970 models and frequently surprise even experienced owners.

Additional Factors

Driver-Level

$48K–$80K

A Driver restoration focuses on reliability, safety, and clean presentation. Paint is typically mid-range, only essential rust repair is performed, and mechanical components are rebuilt or replaced to improve drivability while some cosmetic imperfections may remain.

Show-Level

$100K–$150K+

Show restorations demand significantly more labor. Body lines are perfected, paint receives multiple layers of clear, and chrome or stainless trim is refinished. Interiors are restored with premium materials, and mechanical components are detailed to match the exterior.

Concours / Restomod

$150K–$300K+

Concours builds chase period correctness with date-coded components and factory overspray patterns, while restomods trade originality for performance. Both tracks require intensive labor, precision craftsmanship, and carefully selected components with long lead times.

CategoryPercentWhat's Included
Labor60–75%Primary cost driver
Parts20–30%Reproduction parts add up
Consumables3–5%Paint materials, welding supplies
Adjacent Systems5–10%While-we're-in-there upgrades

Most owners are surprised to learn that labor can account for three-quarters of a Mustang restoration budget. Parts remain relatively affordable thanks to reproduction support, but the time required to install, fit, modify, and finish those parts drives the true total. Consumables and adjacent system upgrades add incremental costs once the car is apart.

  • Rust discovered after media blasting
  • Reproduction panel fitment labor
  • LA paint shop delays
  • Electrical troubleshooting
  • Engine machine shop delays
  • Trim and hardware exceeding $5,000+
  • Cowl replacement requiring windshield and dash removal
  • Interior kit adjustments
  • Driveshaft or crossmember mods during swaps
  • Final assembly exceeding estimates

Hidden costs typically surface during disassembly or blasting. Rust may lurk under seam sealer, electrical systems often contain decades of questionable splices, and trim, hardware, and seals that seem inexpensive individually can stack into thousands of dollars. Plan a contingency fund so these discoveries do not derail the project.

  • Verified 2025 pricing from major Mustang vendors, restoration suppliers, and Los Angeles jobbers.
  • Labor-hour benchmarks pulled from teardown logs, collision estimating platforms, and interviews with Mustang-specific shops.
  • Regional adjustments applied for Los Angeles specialists billing $145–$185 per hour plus longer paint timelines.
  • System-level modeling that combines parts, labor, and risk premiums for hidden rust, panel fitment, and assembly.
Most 1964½ Mustangs cost $48,000–$150,000+ depending on rust, paint quality, and mechanical condition.