289 Windsor
Ford's 289 cubic inch small-block V8 engine, named after the Windsor, Ontario plant where it was built. The original Mustang engine that powered everything from grocery-getter coupes to Shelby GT350s—and the engine most likely to need a rebuild if you're buying a 1965–1967 Mustang.
What '289 Windsor' Actually Means
The 289 Windsor is a 4.7-liter V8 that Ford produced from 1963–1968. In Mustangs, it came in several versions:
- 2-barrel carburetor (200 hp) - Base V8, economy-minded
- 4-barrel carburetor (225 hp) - Most common, good balance of power and reliability
- High-Performance 289 (271 hp) - Solid lifter cam, higher compression, the "K-code" engine that makes collectors excited
It's called "Windsor" to distinguish it from the 289/302 engines built at other Ford plants. The Windsor family includes the 289, 302, and 351W—all sharing similar architecture but different displacements.
If you're buying a classic Mustang and it has a V8, there's a good chance it's a 289. These engines are reliable, parts are available, and rebuilding them is well-understood by any competent shop. They're also 50+ years old, which means most of them need work.
I rebuilt mine because it burned oil, leaked from every gasket, and had a mysterious knock that turned out to be a cracked piston. The rebuild cost $5,200. It runs beautifully now. Ask me if I'd do it again.
(I would. Reluctantly. But I would.)
Why It Matters for Your Mustang
The 289 defines the early Mustang experience:
Strengths:
- Parts availability - Reproduction and performance parts everywhere
- Rebuild-friendly - Any competent shop can rebuild a 289
- Adequate power - 225 hp is enough for spirited driving
- Classic character - The engine Mustangs were designed around
Weaknesses:
- Age-related wear - Most need rebuilds or replacement by now
- Limited power - Modern crate engines offer 300+ hp for similar cost
- Oil consumption - Worn rings and valve guides burn oil
- Overheating potential - Marginal cooling systems struggle in LA traffic
The Rebuild vs. Replace Decision:
If your 289 runs well and doesn't burn oil, keep it. A proper rebuild costs $3,500–$6,000. A crate 302 or 347 stroker costs $4,500–$8,000 and gives you more power, modern reliability, and a warranty.
If you're chasing originality or numbers-matching value, rebuild the 289. If you want a driver that starts every time and doesn't leak, consider a crate engine.
289 vs 302 vs 351W (Quick Comparison):
| Engine | Displacement | Typical HP | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 289 | 289 ci (4.7L) | 200–271 hp | Originality, period-correct builds |
| 302 | 302 ci (5.0L) | 220–290 hp | Modern reliability, mild power upgrade |
| 351W | 351 ci (5.8L) | 250–350 hp | Serious power, requires motor mounts/headers |
All three engines share the Windsor block architecture. A 302 is essentially a stroked 289. A 351W is a larger-displacement evolution with different heads and block dimensions.
If you're rebuilding anyway, a 302 or 347 stroker gives you more torque for similar money. If you're keeping it original, rebuild the 289.
Cost Impact
| Repair Type | Typical Cost (LA) | Labor Hours |
|---|---|---|
| Basic refresh (gaskets, seals, timing chain) | $1,200–$2,500 | 12–20 hours |
| Standard rebuild (bore, new pistons, cam) | $3,500–$6,000 | 30–50 hours + machine shop |
| Performance rebuild (upgraded internals) | $6,000–$10,000 | 40–60 hours + machine shop |
| Crate 302 replacement (modern alternative) | $4,500–$8,000 | 15–25 hours (swap) |
*LA labor rates: $110–$165/hour. Machine shop costs: Bore & hone cylinders ($200–$400), Resurface heads ($150–$300), Crankshaft grinding ($150–$350), Hot tank cleaning ($100–$200), Valve job ($200–$400). Budget 20–30% more than the initial quote. The cost wildness comes from what you find during disassembly. Scored cylinder walls? Add boring and oversize pistons ($800+). Cracked head? Add replacement casting ($400–$800). Worn crankshaft? Add grinding or replacement ($300–$600).
Ask me how I know these numbers.
Common Issues
Oil Leaks
Rear main seal, valve covers, oil pan gaskets all weep over time
Worn Valve Guides
Burns oil, blue smoke on startup
Tired Cam & Lifters
Low power, rough idle, inconsistent performance
Cooling System Struggles
Marginal radiators can't handle LA summer traffic
Ignition Points Wear
Original points-style ignition less reliable than modern systems
Carburetor Issues
Worn Autolite carbs leak, run rich, or refuse to idle
See This in Action
- Mustang Engine Rebuild Cost Guide
Detailed 289 rebuild breakdowns, machine shop costs, and the rebuild vs. replace decision framework
- 289 vs 302 vs 351W: Which Engine Makes Sense for Your Mustang?
Understand power, cost, and fitment trade-offs for engine swap comparisons
Want to Learn More?
Download the Mustang Restoration Starter Kit (LA Edition) for:
- Complete terminology reference guide
- Cost estimation worksheets
- Pre-purchase inspection checklist
- Shop interview questions
- Project timeline planning tools
No upsells. No bait-and-switch. Just the information Dorian wishes he'd had before he bought his first project car.