Media Blasting

Media blasting (also called sandblasting, though sand isn't always the media used) involves propelling fine abrasive particles at high velocity against metal surfaces to remove paint, rust, and scale.

Common media types for classic Mustangs:

Sand blasting: - Most aggressive, removes everything - Can warp thin metal if not careful - Cheapest option - Leaves profile that paint/primer adheres to well

Soda blasting: - Gentler, won't warp thin panels - Good for delicate work (body panels) - More expensive than sand - Requires thorough cleaning after (soda residue affects paint adhesion)

Glass bead blasting: - Medium aggressiveness - Leaves smooth, clean finish - Good for engine parts, suspension components - More expensive than sand

Walnut shell blasting: - Very gentle, won't damage soft metals - Used for aluminum parts, intricate pieces - Not aggressive enough for heavy rust

Which to use: - Frame rails, floor pans, undercarriage: Sand or glass bead - Body panels (fenders, doors, hood): Soda or walnut - Engine components: Glass bead or walnut - Undercarriage/chassis: Sand (most cost-effective for large areas)

I had my entire car media blasted before restoration. The quote was $1,200. After they started, we discovered rust I didn't know existed—floor pans, torque boxes, portions of quarter panels. The blasting revealed $8,000 in metalwork I hadn't budgeted for.

That's the double-edged sword of media blasting: you get a truly clean surface to work with, but you also get complete honesty about what's underneath the paint.

Media blasting is the ONLY way to truly see what you're dealing with:

• Reveals all rust - No more guessing what's under the paint
• Clean surface for welding - Critical for proper weld penetration
• Removes all contaminants - Paint, rust, grease, undercoating
• Reaches crevices - Places you can't sand or wire brush
• Saves time - Faster than chemical stripping or sanding
• Expensive - Whole car: $800–$3,500 depending on media and extent
• Reveals hidden problems - Budget may increase significantly after blasting
• Requires immediate treatment - Bare metal rusts within days
• Can warp thin metal - If done improperly with aggressive media

Media blasting makes sense before major restoration work, when you need to see the full extent of rust, before welding (clean metal = good welds), when chemical stripping isn't feasible, or for undercarriage that's heavily coated in undercoating/tar.

It doesn't make sense when you have surface rust only with solid metal underneath, you're doing a budget restoration where "good enough" works, you're doing piecemeal work over time (bare metal won't wait), or you plan to replace the body panels anyway.

For a whole car (frame-off or rotisserie), the media blasting process involves complete disassembly (remove all glass, trim, rubber, wiring), protecting areas that shouldn't be blasted (body tag, VIN, machined surfaces), blasting exterior surfaces, blasting undercarriage and chassis, blasting interior surfaces (floor, firewall, etc.), cleaning all blasting residue thoroughly, and immediately applying rust inhibitor or primer (within 24–48 hours).

Once metal is blasted bare, the clock starts. Bare steel will surface rust within 24–48 hours in humid conditions. You need to have a plan for immediate rust treatment.

Be prepared to discover floor pan rust you couldn't see under undercoating, quarter panel lower rust hidden by bondo, frame rail perforation covered by layers of paint, rocker panel rust hidden inside the panels, torque box failure you didn't know existed, and previous accident damage poorly repaired.

Budget conservatively: Add 20–30% to your restoration budget as a contingency for what blasting might reveal.

Within 24 hours after blasting, wipe down all surfaces with wax and grease remover, apply self-etching primer or epoxy primer, or apply rust inhibitor if metalwork isn't immediate. Within 48 hours, complete the first coat of primer on all bare metal and seal any areas that won't get immediate attention.

Common mistake: Getting the car blasted, then letting it sit for weeks while you "figure out the next step." Every week of delay equals more rust equals more work.

Professional blasting offers proper containment (doesn't contaminate surroundings), right equipment and media, experience with classic car metalwork, and insurance for any issues, but it's expensive. DIY blasting is cheaper (if you have equipment) and lets you work at your own pace, but it's messy (media gets everywhere), requires a compressor (40+ CFM for effectiveness), has media contamination issues, and has a learning curve (easy to warp panels).

Unless you're experienced with media blasting, professional service is worth it for a complete car. DIY is fine for small parts, undercarriage sections, or engine components.